American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Huascaran Sur, Possible New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Huascaran Sur, Possible New Route. Beginning from the village of Shilla on June 26, Dujan Debelak and Tomac Cerovnik climbed Huascaran Sur (6768 meters) over a three-day period. They began by ascending a rocky ridge (UIAA IV) to 5200 meters, where they bivouaced. The second day of their ascent was spent mainly on snow (50° to 70°) with one short section of rock (IV+). They reached 5900 meters and bivouaced again. On the third day, they encountered steep ice (80° to 85°) and reached the summit slopes at 6470 meters. In bad weather and strong winds, they were forced to bivouac once more. They reached the summit of Huascaran Sur on June 29, and descended via the Normal Route with one more bivouac. They gave the 1650-meter route a grade of TD, IV+, 85°. It's uncertain whether the route is new, but if it is, they give it the name Alpos.

Franci Savenc, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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