American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Huandoy Sur, Oro del Inca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Huandoy Sur, Oro del Inca. On August 9, Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) climbed a new route on the northeast face of Huandoy Sur (6166 meters). He started early at 4:30 a.m. from the moraine camp, crossed the bergschrund and started to climb a very steep face in a direct line. After 300 meters he was forced to go right due to an overhanging rock belt, which crosses the face from left to the right side. He climbed it on the extreme right side (6) and continued for the next 150 meters on the rock (4-5). Good conditions on the upper icefield were followed by black ice in the narrow and steep gully (75° to 85°) that leads directly to the top. He reached the top after five hours of climbing and descended the French route in four and one-half hours. The new route, Oro del Inca, is 1000 meters and graded ED 6- (85°).

Franci Savenc, Planinska zveza Slovenije

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.