American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick. We were seven climbers (Ben Masterson, Didi Langen, H.M. Gotz, Walter Obergolser, Heli Gargitter, Stefan Glowacz and myself). We started the climbing on July 3 and arrived on top July 20. We had fixed ropes all the way to the summit. We climbed in three teams. Everyone reached the top. The wall is divided into two parts. The lower part contains 13 slabby pitches that lead up to the top of a flat buttress we called "Schwarzer Mann." There we installed a camp. Extending vertically above is the column and its crack system. The pitches above the camp offer excellent crack climbing. Finger jams, overhanging fist and hand cracks and some short off-width passages call upon a full repertoire of crack climbing techniques. The character of the rock reminds us again and again of the wonderful Yosemite classics.

We worked on obtaining the summit by rotating teams. Our main goal was to create a well-thought-out, secure free climbing route. We protected the cracks with cams and nuts, and placed bolts where it became too thin. The belays all are secured by two solid bolts. Our goal was also to later free climb the whole route, but we failed by one 5.13 pitch near the top. There were a lot of 5.12 pitches and one 5.13. I highly recommend this unique line on the Ulamertorssuaq. Now it's possible to repeat the route alpine-style in two to three days. We left all the gear that was placed by a hammer on the wall. To repeat the route 1 recommend a double rack of Friends and Stoppers up to number four Camelot and two 60-meter ropes. It's possible to abseil the route.

Kurt Albert, Germany

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