American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Mount Harrison Smith, North Pillar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Mount Harrison Smith, North Pillar. It was reported that Germans Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz, Gerd Heidorn and Leo Reitzner free climbed a 700-meter new route on Mount Harrison Smith, Fitzcarraldo (5.12b). The team took two weeks to bushwack its way into the Cirque of the Unclimbables, paddle 200 kilometers along the Macmillan and South Nahanni Rivers, and ferry loads to basecamp. They then spent three days climbing the 16-pitch route, rappelling the line of ascent with 60-meter ropes. They placed 50 bolts, all by hand on lead, and equipped each belay stance with two bolts. They then turned their attentions to the southwest face of the Lotus Flower Tower, which they climbed all free at VII+/VIII-. They made the 400-kilo-meter return via the South Nahanni River. (An American team that attempted the climb gave up on the line in dismay, so offended were they by the unnecessary number of bolts placed by the first ascensionists. -Ed.) (High Mountain Sports 159)

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