American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Kiguti, Nirvana, and Attempt on The Fin

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Kiguti, Nirvana, and Attempt on The Fin. Our expedition was composed of Pepe Chaverri, Javier Ballester and Daniel Ascaro, all of us from Huesca, Spain. We visited the Sam Ford Fjord, located 100 miles north of Clyde River. During our stay we managed the first ascent of Kiguti, climbing its 300-foot north face alpine-style. We also attempted a new route on The Fin, but had to desist due to bad weather. We arrived at basecamp on May 16, and after hauling our gear (including food for one week) to the base of the wall, we started up on May 21. The lower part of the wall proved fairly easy (5.9 A2). On the 24th we arrived at a good ledge three-quarters of the way up. By this point the weather started deteriorating and the difficulties increased considerably (A3+). We fixed four pitches on the following days and on the 27th, seeing no improvement in the weather, we decided to push on non-stop to the summit, which we reached on the 28th. We spent the following week recovering from this climb. For the next three weeks we attempted a new route on The Fin, but the weather proved to be extremely uncooperative and we had to desist after climbing one-third of the wall. On June 24 we returned to Clyde River.

Javier Ballester, Spain

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