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North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains, Wood Peak, Sinclair Spur, and Mount McArthur, North Ridge

Wood Peak, Sinclair Spur, and Mount McArthur, North Ridge. The Anglo-American team of Geoff Hornby, Tom Nonis, Stephen Jones and Dean Freeman landed on the Hubbard Glacier on May 1. On May 3 they climbed a new route on the west face of Wood Peak (3609 meters) via the previously unclimbed Central Spur. The route had previously been attempted by a Canadian party who suffered a serious crevasse accident on the central part of the ridge. This team climbed closer to the crest and gained the visible summit ridge before retreating in poor weather. Incomplete research had led the team to believe that the mountain may have been unclimbed and so on May 11, Nonis, Jones and Freeman reclimbed the ridge and gained the true summit 400 meters beyond the point reached on the first attempt. It transpired that the Whistler team had in fact made the true summit two years previously. The central spur on the west face of Wood Peak has been named the Sinclair Spur in memory of Mark Sinclair, an original team member who unfortunately was killed climbing on Lochnagar just before the expedition started. Nonis, Jones and Freeman also climbed the North Ridge of McArthur to its junction with the summit plateau, where Jones was hit by falling ice and suffered a head injury, forcing a retreat. Nonis and Jones ultimately went on to attempt the East Ridge of Logan and reached 4200 meters before being caught in a storm that dropped three meters of snow in one night. A serious retreat ensued.

Geoff Hornbv, Alpine Climbing Group