American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Central Alaska Range, Mount Deborah, West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Mount Deborah, West Face. Dave Lucey and I flew into the Yanert Glacier April 28 and moved camp to the base of the first icefall. The key to the first icefall is getting an early start before the rocks on the left start falling. The second icefall offers a 15-foot overhang. We set high camp at 10,000 feet. Ten 300-foot pitches, mostly ice with some snow through the rockband, were climbed by belaying the leader, and the second climbing self-belayed on a fixed line. We climbed through the gargoyles to the top in a whiteout and increasing winds. The rappel of the route was hard enough when we had to traverse toward the right side of the face to the bergschrund crossing, but was made even harder by the rivers of spindrift flowing down and high winds blowing up. Slings and pins were used for anchors in the rocks. Finally, we each stepped into and fell over the bergschrund after 14 hours of climbing and six hours of descending.

Mike Miller, unaffiliated

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