American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, East Face, New Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Longs Peak, East Face, New Variation. In early December John Sherman and I did a possible new variation on the East Face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. We first ascended the mixed route Alexander’s Chimney then traversed Broadway to the north for one rope length to the start of the Eighth Route. We climbed up this on good mixed terrain to a steep chimney system that was choked with water ice. At the top of the chimney it become bomb-bay, requiring very steep and technical dry tooling. This brought us to the summit ridge to the left of the Notch. Under good mixed conditions this is one of the longest and most sustained mixed routes in the Park.

Mark Wilford, unaffiliated

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