American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Factory Butte, San Rafael Swell, School for Advanced Suffering

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Factory Butte, San Rafael Swell, School for Advanced Suffering. The route was first climbed by Cheryl Hogan and me on December 22, 1994. Cheryl bailed off at pitch one after passing out due to mild hypothermia. I continued the route, free soloing about 1,500 feet of 60° to 90° rock/dirt and about 500 feet of vertical sandstone chimney. The first ascent was done without crampons or ice tools. I reached the top about 3 p.m. and searched desperately for several hours for an easier way down. Finding none, I down-climbed the entire route with a pack, rack, and two ropes, as there was no chance of a solid anchor placement to rappel off of. I dubbed the route School For Advanced Suffering (IV 5.9+), but believe the Yosemite Decimal System does not apply to a dirt route of this character done free.

Tony Calderone

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