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North America, United States, Utah, Taylor Canyon, Aphrodite, South Face, The Rotor

Taylor Canyon, Aphrodite, South Face, The Rotor. Mike Pennings and I completed a route on the south face a month-and-a-half after first attempting this line. The route (IV 5.10 A3+) starts in a straight-in splitter and reaches a rightward-trending, right-facing corner system, followed for two pitches to a horizontal that traverses right to a hand crack in a roof. After the initial 5.9+ Cl pitch, two sustained pitches of thin nailing follow, both of which involved several long falls on the first attempt. The 5.10 roof hand crack trends right and joins the Webster-Drieman route on the east ridge where a short pitch brings one to the summit. The crux third pitch used several Rurps, hooks, blades, and Beaks. Fixed anchors were placed at belays only.

Doug Hall