North America, United States, Utah, Climbing Activity in Zion National Park

Publication Year: 1996.

Climbing Activity in Zion National Park. The climbing seasons of 1995 were affected by heavy spring rains, the typical scorching hot summer, and Peregrine Falcon closures. Many of Zion's cliffs are closed from February to July 15 for their breeding period, and most of the available climbing takes place in the upper canyon (the Temple of Sinewava). Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+/13-) received several free ascents, the first since the original free ascent in 1992 by Peter Croft and Johnny Woodward. Alan Lester and Steve Levin did the second free ascent in the spring, Seth Shaw and Beth Malloy climbed the third free ascent in the summer, and Mia Axon and Topher Donahue climbed the fourth free ascent over Thanksgiving weekend. Eric Rasmussen and Jimmy Haden climbed the beautiful North Face of Lady Mountain, establishing Ghost Dance (VI 5.9 A3+, 15 pitches). John Middendorf and Carl Tobin climbed The Mountaineer's Route (IV 5.10) in Oak Creek, a fine jaunt up to the big plateau between the Altar of Sacrifice and the Sundial. Jim Funsten, Doug Beyerly and Brad Quinn climbed Altered States (VI 5.10 A3), a steep crack line which also tops out on the big plateau. Glen Rink and the ever-present Dave Jones climbed Hue and Cry (IV+ 5.11a), another fine free line on the Watchman. In the Temple of Sinewava, Calder Stratford and John Middendorf finished off a route to the right of Desert Shield called Disco Inferno (V 5.10 A3), while Doug Beyerly, Calvin Hebert and Brad Quinn climbed The Big Kahuna (IV+ 5.11 Al), a mostly-free variation to the March-Forrest Chimney (six or seven new pitches). I am interested in collecting all new information on climbs in Zion for historical purposes: Please send reports to John Middendorf, Box 236, Hurricane, UT 84737.

John Middendorf