American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,960+, South Face, Zig-Zag Dihedral

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1996

Peak 12,960+, South Face, Zig-Zag Dihedral. This peak has also been referred to as Peak 13,016 and Peak 3985 meters. Its large south face, about one mile west of the South Face of Lone Pine Peak, already had two long routes, done by Rowell, Jones and Faint in 1970 and Kearney, Nelson and Foster in 1976. Our route goes up between these routes starting with the easy approach climbing of the left (Rowell) route. Where that route goes left, we went straight up, following a right-facing zig-zag dihedral for several sustained pitches. Higher up, the other two routes converge into our line, and all three routes finish with the same easy pitches. Bruce Binder and I climbed it in July, rating it IV 5.9. It would be a Grade V if you went all the way to the summit of the peak.

Pat Brennan, unaffiliated

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