American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Western China, Kaxkar, Tien Shan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Kaxkar, Tien Shan. Kaxkar (or Kashkar) rises to 6347 meters (20,824 feet) in China 15 kilometers south of Tomur (Pik Pobedy). Our expedition was composed of Hedeaki Naoi, Atsushi Miyatake, Yoshiko Miyatake (f), Hajime Goda, Hidenori Sakagami, Yujiro Mino, Yuji Onji, Hitoshi Yamaoka, Hideya Kawai, Kuniaki Yuri and me as leader. We ascended this unclimbed peak via the northeast ridge. The approach to Base Camp at 3900 meters, which we reached on July 27, was the same as that to Tomur, whose Base Camp was 1½ hours away. It took us four days with 30 horses to get there from Aksu, the nearest city, via the West Taran Glacier. One member with serious high-altitude sickness had to be evacuated from Base Camp. On July 30, Camp I was placed at 4550 meters on the northeast ridge, despite rotten rock. We established Camp II at 5160 meters on August 6 after climbing the snow ridge. On August 11, we made Camp III at 5850 meters. On August 12, Yamaoka, Onji, Kawai and Yuri followed the northwest ridge to the summit under fine conditions. On the 13th, Goda and Mino also climbed to the top. For me, this was a fine success after two previous reconnaissances and one attempt.

Masuo Moriya, Japan Workers' Alpine Federation

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