American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Chiring (Karpo Go), Panmah Mustagh

China, Karakoram

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 1994
  • Publication Year: 1995

Ten Japanese under the leadership of Hiroshi Fujii ascended unclimbed Chiring (7090 meters, 23,262 feet), which lies in the Panmah Mustagh on the Chinese-Pakistani frontier. The mountain had unsuccessfully been attempted by Japanese in 1986 and 1988. They had a long approach via the Aghil Pass and the Shaksgam River. They climbed the southeast face and the northeast ridge. Their first efforts were directed at the southeast ridge, but they changed to a spur that descends from Chang Tok Peak, which is northeast of Chiring. They placed Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 4900, 5200, 5700 and 6300 meters, the latter in a col between Chiring and Chang Tok. On July 16, they established Camp IV at 6400 meters on the northeast ridge. On July 19, Hideki Kawaguchi, Akihito Yamasaki and Hiroki Yoshida climbed to the summit. In the next week, all the other members of the expedition reached the top.

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