American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Shisha Pangma. Our commercial expedition organized by Himalayan Kingdoms and led by me had 12 clients and three guides. Heavy snowfall dogged progress in September and high winds stopped summit attempts in October. The first summit attempt on October 1 was beaten back by strong winds. On October 4, I reached the main summit alone after the rest of the party turned back. I traversed from the west summit over the central summit to the main summit via the awkward knife-edged connecting ridge. On October 8, Argentine Daniel Alessio and Briton Richard Forsyth climbed to the west and central summits, but they elected not to continue to the main summit due to poor conditions and high winds. I was the only one to reach the true summit in the post-monsoon season.

Nikola Kekus, Alpine Climbing Group

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