Gul Lasht Zom South and Gul Lasht Zom Southeast, Hindu Kush. Our 12-member Italian expedition reached the roadhead at Shogrom and in three days got to Base Camp at 4650 meters below Istor-O-Nal on the Upper Tirich Glacier. On August 9, we crossed that glacier and placed Camp I at 4950 meters. On August 12, four climbers established Camp II at 5650 meters on the snowy plateau below the Gul Lasht Zom peaks despite incredibly hot weather. On August 15, Elena Guabello, Giacomo Bornancini and I climbed to the summit of Gul Lasht Zom South (6401 meters, 21,000 feet) via the northeast face and north ridge. The entire climb was on ice and was made difficult by meter-high penitentes. On August 17, Francesco Pavanini, Andrea Miotto, Enrico Perani and Marco Baldan climbed Gul Lasht Zom Southeast (6100 meters, 20,013 feet) via the east face and north ridge.
Lucio De Franceschi, Club Alpino Italiano