American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Kuti Dorkush, Batura Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Kuti Dorkush, Batura Group. Irishmen Jack Bergin and Mairi Keenleyside climbed virgin Kuti Dorkush (c. 6000 meters). From Gilgit, they continued by jeep to Bar. Base Camp was near the junction of the Kukuar and Sat Marao Glaciers at 3200 meters. After reconnaissance up the Sat Marao Glacier, they established camp at 4400 meters. On August 6, they climbed séracs, steep ice and mixed ground. Via ice of 70°, they reached the heavily corniced southwest ridge. They got to the summit at ten A.M.

Jözef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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