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Asia, Pakistan, Momhil Sar Attempt

Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our Catalan expedition were Dr. Pep Cañellas, Albert Cornelias, Xavier Font, Dani Ramírez and I as leader. After arriving at the roadhead at Nagar, we took four days to Base Camp, established at 4450 meters on June 23. We followed the route of the 1991 Japanese attempt on the east ridge. Camps I, II and III were established on June 27, July 5 and 13 at 4970, 5480 and 6250 meters. The route to Camp I was on easy moraine, but the way to Camp II, located on a big plateau, was complicated because of crevasses. The climbing to Camp III was easy but steep. We made a first attempt to reach the summit (7343 meters, 24,092 feet) on July 14, reaching 6500 meters. Cornelias and I had altitude problems. On July 25, Cañellas, Font and Ramírez left Camp III on 50° to 70° ramps with much deep snow. After 15 hours, they were at 6580 meters, where they bivouacked in a crevasse. On the 15th, Font stayed in the crevasse and the other two climbed in five hours to 6890 meters, but they were too exhausted to continue to the summit, although the climbing did not look difficult.

Jaume Ros, Cataluña, Spain