American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Laila Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1995

Laila Attempt. Kenzo Yamada, Yasuhiro Ohta, Kiyoshi Harada, Emiko Abe, Michio Noguchi, Masahiko Onda, Takashi Masude and I as leader attempted Laila (6986 meters, 22,921 feet), which rises above the Chogo Lungma Glacier. We left Skardu on July 19, but could not proceed by jeep beyond Tisar because of damage to the road. On July 24, we established Base Camp at 3900 meters at the entrance of the Haramosh Glacier. Camp I was placed on the Haramosh Glacier at 4320 meters on July 27. We started up the route used by the first-ascent party in 1971 but were turned back by unsound rock. We climbed down to the Laila Glacier and climbed up to a higher point on the same ridge via a steep chimney. On July 31, we established Camp II at 5110 meters. After climbing steep snow, on August 4 we made Camp III beneath a cornice at 5670 meters. The upper part of the ridge was blocked by crevasses and cornices. The route should have gone to a cirque on the right side of the ridge, which is the upper part of the Laila Glacier. There were crevasses and avalanche danger there. Our time had run out and we withdrew on August 5 from 5800 meters.

Tadashi Ichikawa, Tokyo Hakuryo Alpine Club, Japan

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