American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Gasherbrum I. Our expedition was composed of Giorgio Nicolodi, Gino Valle, Fausto De Stefani, Sergio De Leo and me as leader. Excessive heat caused problems on the approach along the Braldo River and on the mountain. We climbed Gasherbrum I by the north face up the Japanese Couloir to Camp III and from there to the summit by the Messner-Kammerlander route. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II and III on July 21, 23, 27 and August 2 at 5200, 5900, 6400 and 7200 meters. It took seven hours for all of us except Nicolodi to reach the summit on August 3 from Camp III on very steep slopes. This was the 11th 8000er for De Stefani and my 9th.

Sergio Martini, Club Alpino Italiano

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