American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Ascents, Attempts and Tragedies

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Broad Peak Ascents, Attempts and Tragedies. There were eleven expeditions this year on Broad Peak, on the normal route with only one exception. Mexican Carlos Carsolio climbed a new route. (See the article earlier in this Journal. He was officially a member of an expedition led by German Rollo Steffens, but he climbed independently. Dr. Margret Šterbova led an expedition of 8 Czechs, 2 South Tirolean Italians and I Catalan Spaniard, which placed Hans Kammerlander on the summit on June 21 for his ninth 8000er. He was accompanied by his fellow South Tirolean Hans Mutschlechner as far as the foresummit. Kammerlander placed a piece of red and purple rope firmly tied to a ski pole on the true summit. Since many falsely claim a complete ascent upon reaching the foresummit, this enabled him to check on whether climbers had reached the true summit or not. He skied most of the way down. The Czechs lost two of their number, Bohuslav Bilex to pulmonary edema and Alexei Himer in a fall near Camp II. Acting more or less independently, although officially a member of the Czech team, Magda Nos King, a Spaniard who resides in the United States climbed to 7900 meters with Ang Phuree Sherpa, but they spent much of the time removing debris and garbage. The pair collected and disposed of 2200 pounds of materials. (See below.) Swede Göran Kropp led 3 Swedes and an Australian, who first attempted a new route on the south spur leading to the south shoulder, where the principal difficulties were between 5200 and 7000 meters. They got to 6500 meters but then turned to the normal route. On June 25, Kropp, Swede Mats Holmgren and Australian Andrew Lock climbed to the foresummit. On July 2, Kropp made an amazing solo ascent to the summit in only 18 hours and 15 minutes. Other expeditions which placed climbers on the true summit follow: 4 Germans, 1 Mexican, 2 Austrians and 1 South Tirolean led by Rollo Steffens, of whom Carlos Carsolio completed his climb on July 9; 7 Spanish Basques led by Josu Feijoo, who on July 23 placed Patxi Ibaria on the top, accompanied by two Danes, while Ritxard González got to the foresummit; 4 Danes led by Dr. Henrik Jessen Hansen, of whom Bo Belvedere Christensen and Jan Mathorne climbed to the summit with Ibaria on July 23; and 6 Pakistani, 5 American, 1 French and 3 Italian armed-forces climbers led by Pakistani Jabbar Bhatti, who placed Italian Alessandro Busca on the summit on July 3 and Frenchman Emmanuel Morin on July 10. Unsuccessful were 8 Germans led by Dr. Matthias Respondek, of whom Günter Mauthe and the 48-year-old woman, Helga Leibfarth, reached the foresummit; Germans, Austrians and Swiss led by South Tirolean Hermann Tauber; 7 Mexicans led by Antonio Cortés; 5 Italians led by Sergio Della Longa, 12 Germans and Austrians led by Nik Rafanovic (Martina Bauer, daughter of Willi Bauer who survived the K2 horrors of 1986, got to within 30 meters of the foresummit); and 5 Koreans led by Sun Woo-Nam.

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