Thalay Sagar Attempt. Todd McDougall and I attempted the northeast buttress of Thalay Sagar alpine-style. After arriving at Kedar Tal Base Camp on October 1, we made a carry on the 5th to 17,300 feet below the north face over a difficult moraine. We camped at 17,300 feet on October 7 and for the next two days carried loads and then moved to camp at the saddle at 19,360 feet. The couloir from 18,000 feet to the saddle was hard ice and twice we encountered serious rockfall. We rested and acclimated for three days at 19,360 feet. On October 13, we began what we hoped would be a four-day summit push. We climbed seven pitches, primarily on ice, to the base of the pillar proper but retreated because of severe cold which made technical climbing too difficult. Having reached 20,350 feet, we descended to Base Camp. Not optimistic that it would warm up, we left Base Camp on October 16.
Steven E. House, American Mountain Guides Association