American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Meru North and Shivling II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Meru North and Shivling II. German Bahillo, Juan Carlos Bahillo, Simón Elias and I arrived at Base Camp at Tapovan at 4400 meters on September 4. Our first climb was a new route on the 1250-meter-high east face of Meru North (6450 meters, 21,162 feet). Climbing capsule-style, we were on the wall for ten days. Camp I was at the foot of the face at 4800 meters. We placed a camp at 5500 meters, a bivouac at 5800 meters and a second camp at 5950 meters on the wall. We rate the climb at 6b, A2+, 85°. On September 27, German Bahillo, Elias and I reached the summit. We descended the ascent route in 24 rappels. We then climbed alpine-style the Bonington-Fotheringham route on the southeast ridge of Shivling II (the southwest summit; 6501 meters, 21,330 feet) in a six-day climb from Base Camp to Base Camp. On October 10, both Bahillos and I reached the summit. We descended the normal route.

Jordi Corominas, La Rioja, Spain

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