American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Nanda Devi East

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Nanda Devi East. Because of the closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the only access to Nanda Devi East is from outside the sanctuary. There were four expeditions to the mountain. Britons Julie-Ann Clyma and her husband Roger Payne hoped to climb a new, difficult route on the northeast ridge. After a long time in the area and much bad weather, they climbed the south ridge alpine-style, reaching the top (7434 meters, 24,390 feet) on October 6. They gave a disturbing report on rubbish at Base Camp which had been left there since 1993. The route on the mountain is littered with rope. [See below.] Spanish Catalans led by Ferràn García on June 27 completed the seventh ascent of the first-ascent route via Longstaff’s Col. [See below.] Spanish Basques led by Montxo López de Ipiña got to 6900 meters on the same route, finding the weather too cold and windy. Their high point was reached on October 4. Indo-Americans led by Krishnan Kutty and Tom Ball failed to climb the mountain, withdrawing in mid September.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal

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