American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Nemjung Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Nemjung Attempt. Brian Ottewell, Dave McCarthy, Ray Harris and I attempted Nemjung (7140 meters, 23,425 feet) by its south face and west ridge. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV on October 10, 15, 22, November 1 and 2 at 14,500, 15,700, 17,300, 19,750 and 20,350 feet, the latter on the col below the west ridge. The climbing between Camps I and III was mostly of a technical nature, mainly on rock, but also involving ice and snow. The route was often prone to avalanche and sérac danger made worse by almost daily snowfall. Our highpoint of 21,000 feet (6400 meters) on the west ridge was made on November 7. After three attempts at forcing the route along the ridge, we decided to retreat because of ferocious winds and unstable cornices and séracs. We believe we were the first to have reached so high a point on this side of the mountain.

Peter Hudd, England

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.