American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent. Two Japanese teams went to the normal southeast ridge of Langtang Lining (7234 meters, 23,734 feet). Our group led by Koichi Ezaki consisted of Masayuki Sano, Manabu Kuboki, Kimihiro Moriya, Chie Takeuchi (f), Hiroshi Kudo, Yukifumi Ito and me. Ezaki, Kuboki and Sano had been to the mountain the previous winter, but they had been unable to get higher than 6200 meters because of the need to fix more than the 1400 meters they already had. Now we came better supplied and fixed a total of 2250 meters. We established Base Camp at 4800 meters on the Lirung Glacier on November 28. We climbed a gully to place Camp I at 5600 meters on December 1. We put Camps II and III up the snow-and-ice ridge and above the rock band at 6200 and 6600 meters on December 4 and 8. A strong wind then prevailed, destroying Camp III and half ruining Camp II. All returned to Base Camp. We then attacked the mountain from Camp II. Kuboki, Sano and Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa stood on the summit on December 14 twelve hours after leaving Camp II.

(Ms.) Chie Terayama, Sapporo Alpine Association

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