American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori Post-Monsoon Ascent and Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Pumori Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempts. There were ten expeditions in the autumn to Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet). All climbed or attempted the southeast ridge to the east ridge except where noted. The following expeditions were successful: 7 British led by Chris Comerie, summit on October 4 by Paul Cleary, Mark Bryan and on October 5 by leader Comerie; 7 Czechs led by Radek Kubik, on October 4 by leader Kubik, Jirí Penkava, Miroslav Kotoucek, Jirí Poloch; 3 Germans led by Gerhard Schmatz, on October 7 by Hans Engl and October 7 by Heinz Zembsch; 9 Germans, 2 Swiss, 1 Italian, 1 Mexican led by German Hans Eitel and Mexican Andrés Delgado, on October 7 by co-leader Delgado, Siegfried Wanninger, Wolfgang Raiser and October 10 by Peter Storch, Ludwig Thurner (all Germans except Delgado); 5 Japanese led by Ayumi Nozawi, on October 21 by leader Nozawi, Naoyuki Yamaguchi; and 3 Australians, 2 Britons, 1 New Zealander led by Grant Dixon, on October 21 by Scot Stuart Finlay and New Zealander John Barnes. This last party climbed the south ridge from the southeast. The following did not reach the summit: 6 Austrians led by Josef Redolfi, who got to 6650 meters on October 19; 7 South Koreans led by Kim Ki-Hwan who reached 6550 meters on the east ridge from the south; 3 Swiss led by Rudolf Berni, who were turned back at 6400 meters on October 20; and 1 Swiss, Aldo Verzaroli, who got to 6200 meters solo on the west ridge from the southwest on November 17.

Elizabeth Hawley

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