American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, British Mount Everest Medical Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

British Mount Everest Medical Expedition. Some 75 people in all were members of our expedition, but only eight were allowed to climb in the Western Cwm. Dr. Charlie Hornsby and Dr. Roddy Kirkwood reached the summit of Everest on October 11, accompanied by Sherpas Dorje and Dawa Temba. Alison Hargreaves (f) reached around 8400 meters without supplementary oxygen before being forced back due to high winds and the risk of cold injury. All 16 of our medical research projects were successfully completed. In all, 100,000 points of data were collected over the three-month period from all 75 members. Some data were collected from just 200 meters below the summit. Much of the data is unique and, when processed, should yield valuable information. Scores of academic publications are anticipated in due course. Our environmental team collected a microbiological survey of water quality in the Khumbu valley. They demonstrated a safe and effective method for the disposal of human waste at altitude which involved freeze drying followed by incineration. All the expedition’s waste was dealt with in this manner.

Simon Currin, M.D., United Kingdom

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