American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season. On the standard South Col route on Everest, climbers are somewhat better protected from the terrible winds that sweep the Tibetan side and on October 10, Japanese Muneo Nukita reached the summit with Sherpas Apa, Chuwang Nima and Dawa. His teammate, Takashi Miyahara, aged 60, was forced to turn back only 100 vertical meters below the summit when he lost the sight in his right eye. His eyesight improved as he descended and by the time he was down in Base Camp, it was fully restored. If he had gained the top, he would have been the oldest person ever to climb that high. The record-holder, Ramón Blanco, a Spaniard living in Venezuela, was 60 years, 5 months and 1 day old when he went to the top on October 7, 1993. Miyahara was 60 years, 6 months and 25 days old when he nearly summited. The next day, October 11, two Britons, Charlie Hornsby and Roddy Kirkwood and Sherpas Dorje and Dawa Temba reached the summit. Mrs. Alison Hargreaves, who climbed without artificial oxygen, climbed alone from her last camp on the South Col on October 12. She got to 8400 meters but turned back when her feet were threatened by frostbite. They were members of an expedition of 7 Britons and 1 American, led by Dr. Simon Currin. This expedition also carried out medical research. Unsuccessful were 6 French, 2 Belgians and 1 Portuguese led by Bernard Muller who got to 7900 meters on October 11, 6 Indonesians led by Anton Patandung, who climbed to 7900 meters on October 6 and 3 Sherpas led by Kaji Sherpa, who reached 7060 meters on October 11.

Elizabeth Hawley

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.