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Asia, Nepal, Lhotse

Lhotse. Our international group of six was led by Pole Ryszard Pawlowksi. We established Base Camp on September 5. From September 7 to 22, we acclimatized, stocking Camps I, II and III. Bad weather then held us up. On the 29th, Alec McNab from Scotland and I placed Camp IV at 8050 meters and the next day climbed to 8300 meters before being forced down by high winds and spindrift avalanches. McNab was flown out from Base Camp on October 4 with moderate frostbite. On October 11, Pawlowki climbed to the summit, before heading for Ama Dablam. I remained on Lhotse for a final summit attempt. From Camp II I watched approaching winter scour the Lhotse Face for four days before descending to Base Camp on October 15.

Jeff Lakes, Alpine Club of Canada