American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Arunachal Pradesh, Gorichen II and Gorichen East

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Gorichen II and Gorichen East. Our expedition hoped to climb Kangto (7090 meters, 23,262 feet) in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. There was no ascent recorded of Kangto from the Indian side. Beyond Chokersum, we explored the west and south ridges of Kangto, but neither approach seemed feasible. West of the main peak and on the ridge descending from it, Jagat Thakur, Bivujit Mukhoty, Amit Chowdhary, Lhakpa Sherpa, Sangay Sherpa and Major Upadhyay made the first ascent of P 6020 (19,751 feet). We felt that the mountain could be approached only across the international boundary, the McMahon Line. Not wanting to risk any international dispute, we turned to the Gorichen group to the west and set up an Advance Base at 18,300 feet on the moraine of the glacier flowing down to the east from the headwall of the Gorichen group. After some rock climbing, we established Camp I at 19,300 feet in the basin at the foot of the ridges connecting Gorichen II (6488 meters, 21,287 feet; the highest in the group), Gorichen East (6222 meters, 20,413 teet) and Gorichen South (6247 meters, 20,496 feet). On October 28, N. Norbu, C. Norbu and Lalit Negi made the first ascent of Gorichen East by its north face, followed on the 30th by P.M. Das and Nima Dorje. Also on the 30th, Lalit Negi, Kusang, N. Norbu, C. Norbu, Anita Devi, Kunga Bhutia, Baiju and Major Anil Goth completed a new route, the east ridge, to the summit of Gorichen II, also known as Gorichen Main.

Ajit K. Dutt, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling

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