American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Europe, Norway, Arch Wall, Trollveggen, Winter Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Arch Wall, Trollveggen, Winter Ascent. Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch and I made the first winter ascent of the Arch Wall on Trollveggen. We fixed the first three pitches on February 26 and then from February 28 to March 11 stayed continuously on the wall, first in good weather but with strong wind and temperatures down to - 12°C, but then on five days it snowed. We couldn't climb at all one day. We spent eleven nights on the wall, with a comfortable bivouac only on the Great Flake Ledges. The last bivouac was very cold since we had thrown our bivouac equipment down. On the last day, March 11, we climbed in heavy snowfall to reach the top at three P.M. The Norwegians said it is the most difficult route in Norway.

Jacek Fluder, Klub Wysokogórski Katowice, Poland

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