American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Escudo East Face Attempt, Paine Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Escudo East Face Attempt, Paine Group. A German Alpine Club (DAV) expedition of eight men and two women led by Günther Manz attempted to climb a line on the right side of the east face of the Escudo (Shield) to the left of the route climbed by Gore and Perkins in 1992. They began their try on the 1200-meter-high face January 1, 1994, spending several days on six pitches up a face threatened by falling rock and ice until they reached the band of snow that traverses the face about 300 meters up. In order to eliminate objective danger, they fixed rope as they descended straight down from that point. At the head of the fixed ropes, they established a bivouac from which they worked the route higher. The next seven pitches of aid, which took them to the dike that traverses the face, were the most difficult. They continued on up cracks and dihedrals to a point about 50 meters below a terrace that they thought would allow them to join the Gore-Perkins route, but the unstable weather turned worse and they retreated on January 28, having climbed 850 vertical meters in 22 rope-lengths.

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