American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993. On February 5, 1985, I made the first ascent of Cerro Zapata (1530 meters, 5020 feet), west of Lago Pingo. Fascinated by the view, I was determined to come back to this area. In December 1993, I returned with my wife Maria. We started from the administration center of the Torres del Paine National Park on December 15 with two horses to bring equipment through the Pingo valley as close to the Glaciar Tyndall as possible. Since the horses couldn’t cross a river in flood, we did the risky job ourselves and hauled the gear up to the glacier in several relays. On December 19, we climbed P 1125 on the east rim of the glacier for a perfect view of the route across it. We crossed the glacier at 51°08'S to its west side where we camped at the confluence of the Tyndall with another mighty glacier joining it from the west. Camp was at the southeastern end of a mountain chain that stretched to the northwest. On December 23, we climbed the southernmost peak (1225 meters). On the 27th, we climbed P 1574 (5160 feet), a triangular pyramid, from the south. The weather was mostly excessively windy and stormy.

Michael Kremsner, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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