AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Poincenot, East Buttress, "Whisky-Time"

Poincenot, East Buttress, “Whisky-Time.’’ Working from a biovouac on the Paso Superior, with many interruptions because of the weather, we climbed the first half of our route and fixed it with rope. Finally, on February 10, 1994, we succeeded in climbing the last ten pitches to the summit. From the Paso Superior, it took us an hour to the bergschrund, which was at the point where the Whillans route branched to the left. We continued up mixed climbing and 50° ice to the bottom of the east buttress. After five rope-lengths of difficulty up to 5.11, A4, we got to the prominent crack, which began with off-width breadth and ended after 45 meters in a fist-crack. The next four pitches were up a hand-and fist-crack (5.10 and 5.11). From the head of a small pillar, from which one can leave easily to the left, one reaches after the next two pitches (5.10, A1) a small snowfield. From that point, there are two more pitches (5.8 and 5.6) to the summit of Poincenot (3002 meters, 9849 feet). We rappelled down the same route. Belays were secured by two bolts and one fixed carabiner.

Michal Pitelka and Beat Eggler, Schweizer Alpen Club