American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Cerro Torre, South Face. Marko Lukic, Miha Prapotnik and I climbed an extremely difficult new route on the south face of the Cerro Torre, completed on February 25, 1994. It lies entirely to the right of the route I did with Silvo Karo in 1988. It is 800 meters high and rated at UIAA VII-, A4, 90°. We entered the wall eleven times in the month and a half we were in Base Camp. There were only six days when the weather was fine. We climbed expedition style except for the last four pitches, where we joined the Compressor route. We fixed 770 meters of rope. We used primarily knife blades, skyhooks and all sizes of Friends. We walked to the foot of the wall 16 times. At first we ascended the Adela Glacier but after we saw the devastation caused by a sérac fall from Cerro Adela, we took the longer but safer way below El Mocho. In fine weather, the south face has only 2½ hours of sunshine. In good weather, water runs down the face, and snow and ice fall. Much of the rock is bad. We could use rock shoes on only three of the 22 pitches. The least we could climb in one day was 15 meters and the most, four pitches. This is the third new route climbed by Slovenes on the Cerro Torre.

Janez Jeglic, Planinska zvezci Slovenije

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