American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, El Mocho, Torre de la Media Luna, Saint Exuéry, Aguja Rafael, Poincenot, 1993-94

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1995

El Mocho, Torre de la Media Luna, Saint Exupéry, Aguja Rafael, Poincenot, 1993-94. From December 28 to 31, 1993, Adriano Cavallaro and I climbed a new route on the northwest dihedral of El Mocho. This beautiful 400-meter- high route ascended in its first half the great red dihedral and continued up cracks. At three-quarters height there were some unstable slabs. On January 3, I soloed a new route, “Rubio y Azul,” on the northwest face of the Torre de la Media Luna. This needle lies between El Mocho and Cerro Torre. This is a logical route on excellent rock. The first part ascends the red dihedral of the lower buttress. The second half goes up cracks which lead into the chimney that rises just to the left of the summit. I used one piton, one bolt and a series of Friends for protection. I repeated this climb solo on January 16 and for a third time with Paola Fanton and Fabio Leoni on February 4. On February 9, Leoni and I made the second ascent of the “Chiaro di Luna” (Moonlight) Route on Saint Exupéry. On February 12, Leoni and I alpine-style made the first ascent of Corallo on the west face of the Aguja Rafael (Torre Innominata). The route follows a series of obvious dihedrals in the center of the face. We descended the first-ascent route of 1974. On February 24, Leoni and I climbed the Fonrouge-Rosasco route on Poincenot.

Ermanno Salvaterra, Club Alpino Italiano

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