American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Cerro Olivares, 1993-4

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Cerro Olivares, 1993-4. On December 26, 1993, Humberto Campodónico ascended the Quebrada Aspera and the ridge of Cerro Negro Aspero to bivouac at 4000 meters. The next morning, he left early and climbed to the summit of Cerro Negro Aspero and then Cerro Navidad (both 5500 meters, 18,045 feet).

He continued on to the great flat area below Olivares and camped on the névé of Olivares Norte. On December 28, he made the second and the first solo ascent of Olivares Norte (c. 6000 meters, 19,685 feet). He descended to the Quebrada Amarilla to Guarda Vieja at 3000 meters. The route to Cerro Olivares (6266 meters, 20,558 feet) from the Quebrada Amarilla had been attempted by Manzi and me in 1990. Campodónico made this new route on the little-visited peak. He ascended the quebrada on January 2, 1994 and camped at 5400 meters. The next day, he started early, traversed various false summits and got to the highest summit.

Marcelo Scanu, Grupo de Montaña Huamán, Buenos Aires, Argentina

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.