American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

The Mountaineers

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  • Publication Year: 1995

Nevado Anucara and Other Peaks, Northern Andes, 1993. In August, 1993, at the height of the southern winter, climbers from Valparaíso traveled to northernmost Chile. A military truck took them to Base Camp in the hamlet of Caquena at the northern end of the Lauca National Park. After an ascent of the west side of Parinacota (6348 meters, 20,828 feet), they headed for the unclimbed south side of Pomerape (6222 meters, 20,413 feet), also called Pomarata or Payachata Norte. Because of intense cold, only Darío Alfaro and Héctor Teichelman succeeded, climbing from a 5500-meter camp and the south col up the steep, icy south face. On August 27, 1993 at 9:30 P.M., they reached the top, where they had to bivouac, luckily without wind. Meanwhile, Vicente Barrera, Jorge Cisterna and José Lagos had marched north to the Nevados de Condoriri, located on the Bolivian border. Also on August 27, they made the first ascent of Anucara (5762 meters, 18,904 feet), the highest point in the range. The following day, the entire group returned to Arica.

Evelio Echevarría

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