American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Uummanarsuaq, Pamiagdluk

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Uummanarsuaq, Pamiagdluk, South Greenland. The southern tip of Greenland, the world’s fifth largest island, is called Uummanarsuaq by the native Inuit. Close to storm-bound Kap Farvel soar bold granite peaks with smooth walls that rival the mountains of Patagonia and the faces of Yosemite. This nearly unknown terra incognita culminates in hundreds of bold summits and sharp needles. It was the goal of our expedition which celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Bayerland Section of the German Alpine Club. We had no single peak as an objective, but rather we planned to operate as small units to explore and climb in this nearly untouched climber’s paradise. On July 30, we sailed in a chartered boat from Nanortalik via Frederiksdal through the Torssukatak Fjord to be landed at our Base Camp at Anordliutsup Ima on the eastern end of Pamiagdluk Island. We made the first ascent of three summits: Naujarssuit, north peak (c. 1020 meters) on August 1 via northwest ridge by Herwig Sedlmayer, Rolf Tausing, Klaus Bierl, Günter Schweisshelm (800 meters, UIAA grade II to IV at the bottom and IV to VI- in the top half of 8 rope-lengths); Ingrids Toppen, (c. 1020 meters) on August 1 via east flank by Michael Vogeley, Walter Obster (1 pitch of III); Lemmings Tower on the Red Wall (c. 1050 meters) on August 5 via north side of the Red Wall on August 5 by Sedlmayer, Schweisshelm, Thausing (800 meters, 24 rope-lengths, mostly V and VI with 2 pitches of VII). We made five new routes: Naujarssuit (1100 meters) on August 8 via southern east buttress by Bierl, Vogeley, Walter Obster (700 meters, II to IV); Naujarssuit on August 8 via middle east buttress by Sedlmayer, Thausing, Michael Olzowy, Andreas Wagner (600 meters, 20 rope-lengths, IV to VI-); Grosse Zinne or Cima Grande (c. 1050 meters) on August 8 via southwest ridge by Tomy Weidmann, Schweisshelm (II to IV); Pinkus Corner on south end of Red Wall on August 18 via east face by Thausing, Sedlmayer (600 meters, 18 rope-lengths, VI and VII, A2); and Twin Pillar (1373 meters) on August 18 via east ridge by Inge, Bernd and Michael Olzowy, Bierl, Wagner, Schweisshelm, Fritz and Tomy Weidmann (400 meters, 10 rope-lengths, V, VI and one pitch of VI+).

Michael Vogeley, Bayerland Section, Deutscher Alpenverein

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