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North America, Greenland, Ulamertorssuaq, Tasermiut Fjord

Ulamertorssuaq, Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland. An international expedition composed of Ben Masterson, Kurt Albert, Walter Obergolser, Stefan Glowacz, Hans Martin Götz, Dieter Langen and me climbed above Tasermiut Fjord in July. We made a new route on the 1000-meter-high west face of Ulamertorssuaq (1880 meters, 6168 feet). In unstable weather, we fixed rope on all 28 pitches. On July 19, Masterson and Götz arrived on the summit after working on the route for three weeks. The rest of the team summited on the 20th. We always bivouacked on the wall on portaledges. We descended the same route en rappel. After the climb, we attempted to repeat the ascent climbing free. The difficulties were up to UIAA IX and many pitches of VIII.

Our route went up the thin crack line between the Austrian line on the left and the Swiss on the right. An article, complete with photos and topos, appears in Rotpunkt of November/December, 1994 on pages 20-29.

Helmut Gargitter, South Tirol, Italy