American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Mexico, El Toro, Central Pillar, "El Sendero Luminoso," El Potrero Chico, Nuevo León

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

El Toro, Central Pillar, “El Sendero Luminoso, ” El Potrero Chico, Nuevo León. On March 30, Kurt Smith, Pete Peacock and I summited on the central pillar of El Toro, a 2000-foot limestone spire. Kevin Gallagher, Terry Christenson and I had bolted the first five pitches the year before. I recruited Smith for this year’s bid. Peacock, a 20-year-old Alaskan fishing guide and avid Hueco Tanks boulderer joined the team at the last moment, agreeing to jümar loads to the bivy. Smith and I attempted to red point the first five pitches on February 27 but were turned back by wind, rain and cold. We returned on March 1 and completed the first five, fixing 650-feet of cord from the bivy ledge to the ground. We two lived on the ledge from March 11 to 22, aiding and equipping the upper ten pitches. Peacock supplied us with water, fresh batteries for drilling and the occasional 12-pack of Tecate. Smith and I red pointed the final ten pitches in one push, swinging leads and following on top-rope. No falls were taken. As agreed, Peacock top-roped the last ten pitches the next day. All told, Smith and I spent 20 nights on the ledge, drilled 190 bolts, consumed 40 gallons of water and ate five dozen tortillas. Peacock jümared 28,000 feet and wore the toes out on three pairs of sneakers. (Grade V, 10 pitches of 5.12, 2 of 5.11, 1 of 5.10, 1 of 5.9 and 1 of 5.7.)

Jeff Jackson, Texas Mountain Guides

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