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North America, Canada, British Columbia, Little Snowpatch Spire, West Face, Bugaboos

Little Snowpatch Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. On July 29 and 30, Steve Sheriff, Jon Turk and I climbed the west face of Little Snowpatch Spire, southwest of the Howser Spires. We climbed three pitches up the center of the face, then angled rightward for several more to a point near the right side andfinally ascended a ramp/dihedral system back to the center of the face near the top. We bivouacked at darkness three or four pitches below the top. The next morning, we climbed over the top and descended the 1961 route to the glacier. The Buckingham-Geiser-Garneau note is still in the summit cairn. No other names have been added since their first ascent of the peak. The rock is excellent Bugaboo granite, solid except for a few pitches with loose debris in the lower third of the route. (17 pitches; V, 5.10, A2.)

Gray Thompson