North America, Canada, British Columbia, Rufous Peak, Northwest Face

Publication Year: 1995.

Rufous Peak, Northwest Face. During a five-day trip into the Tchaikazan River valley in September, Steve Sheffield and I climbed a new snow-and-ice route on one of the more prominent peaks of the area, between Taseko and Chilko Lakes. After five hours of tedious forest and scree ascent, we donned crampons and climbed a long but narrow snow-and-ice gully that merges with the glacial slope of the upper north face. Conditions, autumn color and weather were supreme.

Fred Beckey