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North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, McArthur Peak, East Summit

McArthur Peak, East Summit. Australian Tony Hunter, New Zealander Andy Scrace and Canadians Graham Rowbotham and I had first planned to climb McArthur as an acclimatization climb for the east ridge of Mount Logan, but drifting clouds kept us from seeing the route and we headed off for Logan. Nineteen days later we were back on the Hubbard Glacier after being driven back only 250 meters from the summit by a short but violent storm. There have been tremendous routes put up the south face of McArthur, but all went to the west peak. The only exception was the route done by Bruce Kay and Grant Stratham in 1992 on the rib on the south face to the right of the one we did. They descended from the east ridge crest, not continuing to the east summit. On June 15, we started up the easternmost of the two ribs, climbing a couloir on the eastern side of the rib in ten hours to camp on the arĂȘte at the top of the couloir. The next morning, we climbed the ridge to the junction of the rib and the east ridge. The last pitch of grade-2 ice was really the only technical climbing on the route. We carried on to the summit and arrived just before the afternoon cloud build-up. We descended the east ridge past the junction with our spur to camp at 3900 meters. On the 17th, we continued on down the east ridge to 3600 meters, where we down-climbed and rappelled a couloir to arrive back at Base Camp in the evening.

Bob Koen, Alpine Club of Canada