American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Arches National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Arches National Park. In the spring of 1994, Frenchmen Estève Haston and Laurent Gousult climbed Thelma and Louise (III, 5.11+, 5 pitches) on the Southwest Tower of Organ Rock. This was the first free ascent of the popular tower that has at least five other routes involving aid. On Easter Sunday, David Evans, Tom Sherman, Margy Floyd, with Jim Angione and John Furlong on the lower pitches, climbed The Crystalline Entity (III, 5.9, A3, 4 pitches) on the Three Gossips, across from the Organ. The route ascends the crack system left of the west-face route. Knockfirst Sandwich (III, 5.7, A3, 3 pitches), a new route on the Three Gossips, was climbed solo by James Funsten in May 1993. The route ascends the east face to the south summit, up a steep crack to an obvious corner. Also on the Three Gossips, Duane and Lisa Raleigh put up Speak No Evil (III, 5.10, Al, 4 pitches) on the east face via a crack system located opposite the Lyon-Trautner route. Thirty feet to the left of this route, Jeff Widen and John Plyan established a major variation to the long first pitch. In the Windows section of the park, several unclimbed towers were ascended. Squaw Pinnacle, a prominent spire 2000 feet south of and across the park road from Owl Rock, was climbed by Keen Butterworth and Dave Glouderman (5.10, A3). On the second ascent, Mike Bryan and Frosty Weller climbed a 5.4 variation which begins 30 feet right of the original ascent line, an easy bypass to the 5.10 original beginning. Bull Winckle was climbed via its west chimney (I. 5.7+) by Sara Holloway and Keen Butterworth and also via its east chimney (I, 5.9) by Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach. This tower is the first landform south of Owl Rock. The southernmost isolated tower when looking east toward the Windows section, The Remnant (5.9+), was climbed by Frosty Weller and Mike Bryan. Keen Butterworth made a solo first ascent of The Wishbone (5.8, A2+), just north of the trail to North Window. Butterworth also soloed Aunt Emma (A3) via its south face. This is just south of Buccaneer Rock at the southern end of the Parade of Elephants. In a remote region of the park on the west side of The Great Wall, Butterworth and Jonathan Auerbach climbed Pray for the Best (5.11, A0). Two Days of Ease on the Daisy Tower, south of and behind Sheep Rock, was climbed by Butterworth and Auerbach, with Randall Weekley on the lower pitches (IV, 5.10, A3+, 5 pitches).

Eric BjØrnstad

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