American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Moab Area

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Moab Area. A relatively new climbing area is known as Culvert Canyon It is located ten miles down the Potash Road (State Highway 313) just beyond the trailhead for Corona Arch. At the right corner of the canyon, up Wingate sandstone walls, are Finger Food (5.9) and El Nacho (5.9), both climbed by Todd Marder and Millie Birdwell; Corner (5.11), Power Cosmic (5.11c) and Round Head Ruckus (5.9), all three climbed by Tom Gilje and Bob Novellino. Numerous other routes have been established on both the east and west walls. In Long Canyon, 14 miles down the Potash Road, Craig Luebben and Lisa Grenard climbed a prominent three-tiered crack corner (5.11) on the south side of the canyon. On the right side of a pillar on the prow of rock on the left side of the entrance to Long Canyon, Done Loubin (5.11, 4 pitches) was climbed by Jimmy Dunn and Luebben. This is perhaps the first route in Long Canyon that reaches the rim. Off (5.12b) was put up by Luebben and Topfer Donahue. It is on the left side of the pillar on the left wall just inside the canyon. The route climbs Off Fists, then Off Width and finally Off Fingers. On the opposite (north) side of the entrance, 150 yards beyond Jug Handle Arch, Porcupine Flake (5.10) was climbed via its left side by Dunn, Luebben, Donahue and Doug McQueen. Further up the canyon on its north wall, Lisa Hathaway and Luebben put up Blood on the Tracks (5.12). The Dragon’s Lear (5.11), up Long Canyon between Nacro Dancer and Nacro Line, was climbed by Luebben and Greg Murphy. Galen Rowell and John Laurtig ascended Mustang Man (5.11d-5.12a), a finger crack. This route is 100 yards left of Hot Toddy and Tequila Sunrise. In the Cirque of the Climbables, down Kain Creek, Luebben, Dunn and Novellino climbed Leave Your Purse At Home (II, 5.11a, OW, 3 Pitches). Surface Tension (5.11+, 1 pitch) was climbed by Linus Platt. Moonlight Spire (II, 5.9, A2, 3 pitches) was climbed by Steve Anderson and Bill Duncan. This tower is within the Horseshoe Rincon, across from the Potash Mine and was reached via Hurrah Pass down Kain Creek, southwest of Moab.

Eric BjØrnstad

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