American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Patterson Bluffs, "The Sun Also Rises"

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Patterson Bluffs, “The Sun Also Rises. " In September, Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers and I completed a free ascent of the Sunset Buttress Route, originally rated IV, 5.10, A2 (AAJ, 1986, page 156) on Patterson Bluffs above Balch Camp. The route had not been repeated since its original ascent. This remote 10-pitch route involves 2 pitches of 5.12, 6 of 5.11 and 1 each of 5.10 and 5.8. We climbed three new variation pitches to avoid unfreeable thin aid sections. This beautiful classic route is composed of about half crack-and half face-climbing on a steep slab, often involving airy sections on fine crystal dikes. Most belays are on ledges or stances, but there are three hanging belays. It is well protected with ?" bolts and incorporates nine fixed rappel stations to reach the bottom of the route from the top. Car access is via dirt road, then a 10-minute hike to the top (start of rappels). An approach to the base would involve a major amount of bushwhacking.

Richard Leversee

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.