AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, P 13,040+, Third Needle, Trail Camp Crag, Lone Pine Peak, The Duck, The Turret

P 13,040+, Third Needle, Trail Camp Crag, Lone Pine Peak, The Duck, The Turret. P 13,040+ lies just north of Mount Powell. On the right side of the east face is a straight-up crack that goes from the ground to the summit ridge, finishing north of the summit (III, 5.10b). The third (crux) pitch goes through three small roofs. Eric Tipton and I climbed it in 1994. In June, Ken Kenaga and I followed the first pitch up the east buttress route of the Third Needle and headed left onto the south face via a third-class pitch. We then went up a right-facing orange corner in the center of the face. (III, 5.10c, 5 pitches.) In June, Kenaga and I climbed a two-pitch route on Trail Camp Crag (I, 5.8). As you look north from the solar outhouse there is an obvious crack that goes through two roofs. In September, Bruce Bindner and I completed the “Summer Ridge Route” on the south face of Lone Pine Peak in a two-day push (V, 5.9). It follows the Winter Route for 1½ pitches and then takes the gully on the left side of the serrated ridge mentioned in Roper’s guide. After some pitches, we actually climbed on both sides of the ridge, following the easiest way. We rejoined the Winter Route in the notch at the top of the 17th pitch. We then followed for six more pitches to the top. In July, Bindner and I climbed a right-facing dihedral with a large crack on the east face of The Duck. We then climbed the left-facing dihedrals left of the prow (III, 5.10c). In July, Bindner and I followed a double-crack system on the right side of the east face of The Turret to just above halfway and then went up dihedrals and cracks to the top (III, 5.9). Having encountered some bolts, we believe that the route had been previously climbed but not reported.

Pat Brennan