American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Lichtenberg Mountain, West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1995

Lichtenberg Mountain, West Face. During a late summer hike north of Stevens Pass, my son Nik and I looked up at the unclimbed west face of Lichtenberg Mountain. From Stevens Pass, it is seen on the horizon as a sharp rock spire. It was already noon, but we decided there was enough daylight left to give the nearly vertical face a try. We skirted picturesque Valhalla Lake on the south side and hiked up steep scree. A short fourth-class scramble put us on a large, sandy ledge, where we roped. We chose a large, diagonal ramp/dihedral. The first short pitch took us to a long 5.7 friction slab. The third pitch began at a large horizontal ledge with a tricky 5.8 overhanging move. Pitch 4 continued up a 100-foot easy ramp and descended 30 feet on a ramp to the right. Pitch 5 was up a major chimney with good handholds. Pitch 6 turned the southwest crest of the face, just below the summit. We were on the face four hours and returned to Stevens Pass before nightfall. (II,5.8)

Alex Bertulis

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